This level of finish is required where gloss, semigloss or enamel are specified. Level 5 The highest quality finish is the most effective method to provide a uniform surface and minimize the possibility of joint photographing and of fasteners showing through the final decoration. Level 5 is a process and not necessarily a result: the process is pretty straightforward but the result is to MINIMIZE visual defects, not to eliminate them: Hopefully, they actually cross roll your ceiling. If they were to say sprayed your ceiling but didn't roll it out, it would not look like a flat, if it was sprayed and back rolled but it had a roller miss or even rolled right into the wall the corner that wasn't touch would be shinny basically picture framing.įor that reason, I would say it's best to roll out the finish. What I will say is if emerald is solely sprayed on and not back rolled, there is actually a sheen difference. Since you're using a matt finish, I assume your walls and ceiling are going the same material. They should be sanding between each coat, tho. It should be sprayed on uniform coating the area then back rolled, which will give it a much better hide. When you spray on primer, it has more penetration. Constantly taking the extra so there's no real soak in time. When rolling, you're basically taking the paint and spreading it across the surface until you're almost dry and going again. Just rolling on the primer well be a dryer apply. You have a signed contract so if it doesn’t meet the standard then they will have to come and fix it. But they are very clearly very good tradesmen and I would be inclined to trust then for the minute. If you can see joints in the light then mark the time of the day and let them know that it needs to be fixed. Make sure there is no bumps in the internals and on externals make sure they aren’t hollow, you can do that with a straight edge or spirit level held horizontally. Things like externals and internals you can check closely. And if you can’t see any joint edges or the difference in texture with your eye then that’s a level 5. And it is basically accepted that skimming is the method to use but it is not mandatory.Īnd to check you go to every wall and every ceiling at different times of the day, preferably on a bright day. It’s near impossible but not impossible to achieve this without skimming. Humps or bumps and very important that you can’t see any of the joints in natural light. Can’t visibly see any markings, differences in sheen and texture. Like the old saying, I don’t need to know how to make a watch, I just need to know how to tell time. Not trying to criticize you, you don’t need to know how to do it, but you need to understand what it is. If you’re really concerned, you can take a floodlight and hold it to the walls to look for shadows, take a straight edge (a level or even a 12+ inch mud knife) and hold it to the seams with backlighting, if you’re getting light shining through, you’ve got an uneven seam. As long as there’s no ridges or voids in their mud work, tape is covered, fasteners have gotten 2 solid coats and there’s no blemishes, you’re going to be in good shape. Level 4 is more than sufficient for a good primer coat and a matte paint. In other words, if you’re doing an enamel paint in a room with tons of lighting from multiple angles. Level 5 is a near-glass like finish for high gloss, high light surfaces. If you’re going with a matte paint, there’s zero need for level 5. On a project like you mentioned the difference in my invoice on L4 and L5 is about $6k. Otherwise your subs are going to take advantage of you left and right and it’s going to cost you an arm and a leg. I don’t mean to be harsh here but, as a drywall contractor, I think you need to learn the distinction between the two different finishes, what they are and when to use them. This isn't an unusual request and the contractor needs to learn to deliver what he promised. In my area it's rather common to level 5 the ceilings in new builds. For most people, it's not a big enough deal to warrant the cost of doing a level 5, or perhaps the painter helps compensate by using a longer nap roller to give the wall a slightly textured look and help hide the difference. You WILL be able to see the difference between the paper and the mud under harsh lighting like you have in the room with the big windows. When you sand the drywall it compounds the roughness of the drywall slightly by scuffing up the edges where the mud meets the paper. Two, it's a more noticeable difference than the guy reassuring you is letting on. Nothing arbitrary or left to interpretation about it. One, like I said, level 5 means a specific level of finish before any paint is applied. I'm kind of with the other guy who mentioned that this might just be the hard lesson the contractor needs for two reasons. There is nothing arbitrary about level 5.
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